The Menjangan sits inside West Bali National Park, on the island’s north-west coast. Forest surrounds the scattered lodges, and a boat takes you out to the reefs of Menjangan Island. It is a very different experience from Nusa Dua, Kuta or Sanur. I was charmed by the quiet and the wildlife.
There are compromises. Getting here takes time, the grounds are large enough to need transport, and the shore is less straightforward for swimming than a photograph of the bay might suggest. But the setting gives those inconveniences a purpose.
Staying inside the national park
The resort occupies 382 hectares, with accommodation, restaurants and the waterfront spread through the forest. The double-decker safari minibuses are part of its character, as well as a practical way of getting around. During my stay, signs marked which paths could be walked and which were restricted because of wildlife; ask the staff about the routes currently open.
Deer, wild pigs, macaques and birds belong to this landscape. The pleasure is being among them in their own surroundings. Horse riding was particularly enjoyable here: the forest made it much more interesting than a ride around hotel grounds. The resort still offers guided rides, along with forest walks, birdwatching and kayaking in Bajul Bay. You can also join a full-day excursion combining a guided forest walk with snorkelling at Menjangan Island.
Monsoon Lodge or a beach villa?
I stayed in a suite at Monsoon Lodge. It was simple, comfortable and well suited to the place. The staff were friendly and caring.
For a booking today, the main choice is between the forest and the waterfront. Monsoon Lodge has Deluxe rooms and larger suites around a shared pool; the suites have a wooden deck overlooking it. Beach Villas put you close to the shore, with indoor and outdoor bathrooms. There is also a separate three-bedroom Residence with its own pool. The location within this large property matters as much as the room category, so consider how you want to move between your room, meals and the sea.
Evenings brought a great many mosquitoes. The hotel supplied sprays and incense, but the mosquitoes seemed to like them too. I would pack repellent and light clothing that covers arms and legs.
Breakfast at Bali Tower
Breakfast on the terrace at Bali Tower was one of the pleasures of my stay: calm, unhurried and with a view worth climbing higher to see. The tower also housed reception when I visited.
The food was good, with local and Mediterranean dishes, fresh ingredients and plenty of choice in drinks and cocktails. That mattered here. Going out for dinner involved a journey, and hotel transport was expensive enough that I would plan to eat most meals on the property.
Today, Bali Tower Bistro serves international food above the forest, while Pantai Restaurant at Sentigi Beach offers seafood and grilled dishes beside the water. The Mangrove Spa is also down by the shore, with treatments in open-air gazebos. These are separate parts of the resort, so allow for the shuttle when making plans.
Swimming and Menjangan Island
The hotel’s shore was not its strongest feature. Entry into the sea was awkward, and at low tide I could not make my way out from the beach. The pontoon was the useful alternative for swimming and snorkelling, and the water in the bay was calm during my stay.
Menjangan Island was the excursion I would most strongly recommend. The boat crossing took about half an hour on my trip, and the coral gardens and abundance of fish rewarded the journey. Ashore, I liked the small shells covering the beach and the crabs among them.
Take the currents seriously. Around the island, water can push a swimmer towards coral close to the surface. Follow the guide’s instructions about where to enter and which way to swim, and keep clear of the reef.
The hotel arranges snorkelling and diving excursions. Local operators also offer guided Menjangan Island snorkelling trips with lunch. Confirm collection from The Menjangan and whether park admission is included in your selected option before booking.
Getting to The Menjangan
This is a substantial road journey from southern Bali. Arrange the transfer in advance and ask for an estimate from your actual starting point; traffic and the route make a fixed journey time misleading. The hotel can organise return transfers across Bali.
Bring the things you will need during the stay, rather than relying on a quick walk to a shop or pharmacy. The useful connection from here is to the national park and the water: forest outings, the bay and the island reefs. For current room choices and arrangements, see The Menjangan’s official website.
The road is long. I thought the place was worth it.