Brazil

The restaurant had been recommended to us for its wonderful steaks. We were disappointed: the meat was tough and lacked flavour. We chose a Brazilian steak; perhaps the Angus would have been better.

Everything else pleased us. The starters were excellent, though they arrived automatically and were added to the bill. There was a good wine list, with plenty of Brazilian wines. They might not claim to be the world’s finest, but I was interested in trying something local.

The waiters practically ran between tables, and service was remarkably quick despite the full dining room. The famous tree in the centre brought character and warmth to the room. The drawback was the noise.

If my main aim were a juicy steak, I would choose somewhere else. For that alone, I would give it three out of five. Overall, though, I left with a good impression.

I enjoyed the tasting menu: sashimi that melted in the mouth, wonderful scallops in a fragrant broth, and an unusual combination of tuna and foie gras. Everything was exceptionally fresh, and the selection of fresh fish impressed me.

Traditional Japanese cooking was combined with local fish, herbs and spices. Some dishes introduced flavours that were quite new to me.

Service was excellent. I liked the atmosphere, with subdued lighting that suited the architecture. I recommend it to lovers of Japanese food and anyone interested in kappo cooking. The price felt fair for the experience. At the time of my review, the restaurant held one Michelin star.