Indonesia

Rinjani is one of the most beautiful volcanoes in the world and Indonesia’s second highest. I was among those who wanted to reach its summit. Inexperience led me to make several mistakes, so I wanted to share what I learnt. I climbed from Sembalun to the 3,726-metre summit in July. Much depends on your stamina and fitness, but the essential thing is to judge your abilities honestly. Rinjani is no Everest, yet the climb is very difficult. It is worth it.

There are several routes. First decide whether you want to reach the summit or stop at the Plawangan rim campsite, at 2,640 metres. From the camp, clouds permitting, you can see the lake and Baru crater before continuing down towards the lake and hot springs. Not everyone goes to the summit. It requires enormous effort: once you start the second part, the walk to camp feels like a warm-up.

If the summit is your goal, starting from Sembalun makes more sense. The approach is longer but easier, saving energy, and you tackle the summit early on the second morning, before descending to the lake. Starting from Senaru puts the lake first and the summit later, when you may have much less energy.

This little island west of Lombok captivated me with its unspoilt beauty. If you want a peaceful day away from crowds, with soft white sand, clear water and some snorkelling, you will like it here.

The beach is lovely, scattered in places with tiny shells. Tall pines and lush greenery provide shade, and the water is clean with an easy entrance and a good depth for swimming. Do not expect extraordinary snorkelling, but it is enjoyable and suitable for beginners: there are plenty of fish close to shore, with coral farther out in deeper water. The private island was almost deserted; apart from visitors, only the staff of its small hotel lived there.

Ratu Boko stands on high ground near Prambanan, with views across the valley and towards the volcano. I went to see Merapi again at sunset. Unfortunately, clouds gathered and rain began, so I could barely see anything, let alone the volcano.

I would only recommend going purely for the ruins if you particularly love such places, or have plenty of time to explore the surroundings of Prambanan thoroughly. The site’s history and purpose are not entirely clear. Although it is called a temple, the interpretation I encountered was of a palace complex, with defensive structures, fortified walls and settlements, rather than a religious site.

At the time, a sunset ticket cost 110,000 rupiah, around ten dollars, and included tea or coffee and a light snack. A combined ticket for Prambanan and Ratu Boko, with transport between them, was also available.

I love ancient Buddhist temple complexes, and Borobudur became one of my favourites. Beyond the grandeur of the monument itself, its setting is remarkable: on a hill, surrounded by green hills and Mount Merapi.

It was about an hour’s drive from Yogyakarta. You could combine it with other sights in a day, but I would recommend staying nearby to see the temple at sunrise. In the early light it was magical. At the time, visitors bought a Borobudur Sunrise ticket at the Manohara hotel, collected torches and climbed the steps in anticipation.

Then came the wait—and an unforgettable dawn. Shades of red, the view towards the volcano, mist and the sun rising above it all. The sunrise ticket cost 400,000 rupiah, almost twice the normal visit, and included tea or coffee and a bun afterwards on the terrace overlooking the temple. I felt it was worth it.

Standing on the upper level, I could hardly breathe for the atmosphere of the place. I recommend seeing Borobudur if you visit Java, but be prepared to share it with many others, whatever the time of day.

The museum contained a great deal of interesting information about Indonesia’s volcanoes and seismically active areas, with particular attention to Merapi.

Its account of the destructive 2010 eruption conveyed the sadness of what happened: villages at the foot of the volcano were badly damaged, and many families suffered tragedy. After visiting, I had a much clearer picture of those events. You could also see their consequences outside the museum, in the partly ruined settlements on the volcano’s slopes.

We travelled to the Togian Islands specifically to see the jellyfish lake and swim among its inhabitants. From Black Marlin Dive Resort, the boat journey took about twenty minutes.

It was a beautiful place. A strip of land only a few metres wide separated the lake from the sea. The water was warm, around 30 degrees. We brought masks, although it was so cloudy that I could barely see beyond an outstretched hand.

There were jellyfish everywhere, and they did not shy away. Gathering my courage, I gently touched one on top. It really did not sting!