Safari
I still remember the day I first saw dozens of zebras galloping alongside our vehicle in South Africa. Many years and places later, after the Big Five, tigers and more than one Baloo, those zebras still hold the essence of safari: animals enjoying their freedom in their own world, seen without being disturbed. Today it is the best part of travel for me. Here I gather the places that make it possible, and the people who showed the way.
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John Wakefield: Saving Tigers by Making Safaris Pay
At Kabini, John Wakefield helped make tiger conservation part of a working livelihood: guests paid to watch wildlife, and a living forest kept them coming back.
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Leslie Tarlton: The Man Who Taught Safari to Receive Guests
A bed, a bath, a bottle of champagne: how Leslie Tarlton helped turn the African expedition into hospitality—and its equipment into the rituals of safari.
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Amarembo by Touch Down: between bamboo and fire
My Amarembo by Touch Down review: thatched garden cottages near Volcanoes National Park, fireside meals, golden monkeys, and Gorilla Guardians Village.
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Gondwana Game Reserve: A Safari Within Reach of Cape Town
How a four-hour drive from Cape Town took us to dawn and dusk game drives, a private fynbos villa and nights among South Africa’s wildlife.
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Victoria Falls River Lodge: the quieter life of the Zambezi
My Victoria Falls River Lodge review: elephants by the plunge pool, sunrise safaris on the Zambezi, excellent food and easy access to Victoria Falls.
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Entim Camp: My Birthday Beside the Mara River
My Entim Camp review from Kenya’s Masai Mara: riverfront tents, memorable food and a birthday balloon safari, with practical notes for planning a stay.
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Komodo Island: A Walk with Adrenaline
Part IV of my journey to the Komodo dragons: flying foxes at Kalong, a night on the boat, a walk among the dragons of Komodo Island, and Pink…
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Rinca Island: An Expedition to Jurassic Park
Part III of my journey to the Komodo dragons: the boat from Labuan Bajo to Rinca, the camp at Loh Buaya, nesting season, and which trail to choose.
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Komodo National Park: Guests of the Dragons
Part I of my journey to the Komodo dragons: the four-day route from Bali, what the world’s largest lizard really is, and where in the world it still…